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LIMESTONE |
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The Barn
Milne House Millers Dale Derbyshire |
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Nestling in the heart of the Peak District |
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Beautiful Self Catering Holiday Cottage
01298 872338
Sleeps Six
Stunning Location
18th Century Barn
Overlooking River Wye |
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Millers Dale is in the middle of some of the best Limestone. Copyright © ROCKFAX 2007
Raven Tor
The most famous Tor in the peak, even the French have heard of this one. Routes include, The Prow, once proclaimed as the hardest route in the World, Revelations, one of the first 8a+s in the World, Hubble, the World's first 8c and now Mutation, one of only a handful of 9a routes in the World. The crag still has more to offer and the bulging roof right of Hubble is set one day to push the notch higher again.
Distance 10 minutes level walk
Routes: 7 trad 46 sport
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Chee Dale Upper
The area Chee Dale Upper covers all the Chee Dale crags that would usually be approach from the Topley Pike (west) end of the dale. This includes everything from Blatant and Blackwell Halt, down through the Embankment and Two Tier to Nettle Buttress and the Nook.
Distance 10 minutes level walk
Routes: 155 trad 275 sport |
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Chee Dale Lower
The crags in Chee Dale which are generally approached from Millers Dale. These are the Cornice, Rhubarb Buttress and Chee Tor.
Distance 15 minutes level walk
Routes: 110 trad 86 sport
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=25
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Water cum Jolly
In many ways Water-cum-Jolly lives in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour - the routes are shorter, the buttresses smaller, and the setting less dramatic but no less picturesque. In summer, each of the buttresses stands in isolation from the others, sheltered by the trees and, with the exception of Rubicon Wall, your only companions are likely to be one or two other climbers and then only on busy weekends.
Distance 20 minutes level walk
Routes: 170 trad 66 sport
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=97
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Ravensdale
Looking west out over the attractive wooded valley of Cressbrook Dale, Ravensdale crag has a lot to offer the climber operating at the VS and HVS level as orange-spot routes abound here. The tall Raven Buttress, directly above the cottages, contains some long, attractive routes with plenty of exposure and an almost a mountain-crag atmosphere. Further left is a cluster of interesting shorter climbs surround the natural arch of the Flying Buttress Area.
Distance 20 minutes level walk
Routes: 32 trad
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=210
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Stoney Middleton
Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.
Distance 15 minutes drive
Routes: 111 trad 1 sport
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=21
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Matlock
Matlock is home to some of the best Limestone.
High Tor can justifiably claim to be the finest limestone crag in the Peak. Over the years visits here regularly become the fulfilment of a climbing ambition; once each challenging route has been climbed there remains another, a little bit harder and a little bit better, to aim for. The climbing tends to be mostly just off-vertical pocket-pulling although there are some steeper lines and a few beefy roof climbs.
Distance 20 minutes drive
Routes: 81 trad 4 sport
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=89
Wildcat is an underrated crag contains a good concentration of VS and HVS limestone climbs, comparable with almost anywhere in the Peak. Here is a collection of long routes in impressive surroundings and often on a feline theme. Wildcat has its fair share of poor rock and vegetated routes, and so only the better climbs are described here. All of these are worthwhile, and with a little effort, something can be found unoccupied even on the busiest of days.
Distance 20 minutes drive
Routes: 31 trad
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=255
Pic Tor is a small compact sheet of rock within the confines of Matlock. Only a few minutes from the parking it is good venue for a quick session.
Distance 20 minutes drive
Routes: 13 trad
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=254
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Dove Dale
The meandering and deeply-incised valley of the River Dove is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the whole of the Peak. There are rocky outcrops down the whole length of the valley, many of which are clearly visible to the tourist hoards and others that are well-hidden from view.
Distance 30 minutes drive
Routes: 101 trad |
