BOULDERING

The Barn

 

Milne House

Millers Dale

Derbyshire

Nestling in the heart of the Peak District

Beautiful Self Catering

Holiday Cottage

 

01298 872338

 

Sleeps Six

 

Stunning Location

 

18th Century Barn

 

Overlooking River Wye

Bouldering map

Copyright © ROCKFAX 2007

 

Raven Tor

 

The most famous Tor in the peak, even the French have heard of this one. Routes include, The Prow, once proclaimed as the hardest route in the World, Revelations, one of the first 8a+s in the World, Hubble, the World's first 8c and now Mutation, one of only a handful of 9a routes in the World. The crag still has more to offer and the bulging roof right of Hubble is set one day to push the notch higher again.

 

Distance

10 minutes level walk

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=88

Rubicon-Water cum Jolly

 

The best buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the short sweeping wall of Rubicon. Easily situated near the Cressbrook end of the dale, Rubicon has become a popular bouldering mecca as well as a major forcing ground for hard sport routes.

 

Distance

20 minutes level walk

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=446#

Stoney Middleton

 

Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.

 

Routes:

1 Bouldering

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

 http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=21#

Roaches Lower

 

The finest of all the western gritstone cliffs (and some argue finest of all grit) is the superb tiered outcrop of the Roaches. Standing proud above the Cheshire plain, the crag has routes of all grades and of a length that is exceptional for grit. The rock is tinted a pale pinkish and tends to be rather less abrasive than that of the Eastern Edges, though that doesn't mean that the cliffs many superb jamming cracks won't leave their mark!

 

Routes:

7 Bouldering

 

 

Distance

20 minute drive

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=94

Stanage Popular

 

Most people\'s first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End where there are enough classics for many years of superb climbing.

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

Routes:

17 Bouldering

 

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=8

 

 

Stanage Plantation

 

The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more continuous section of the climbing. Here the cliff reaches its greatest height on the Tower Face and the whole section is littered with great routes across the grades. It is also one of the most popular bouldering spots around particularly the jumble below Goliath\'s Groove, and the blocks below Paradise Wall.

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

Routes:

20 Bouldering

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=7

 

 

Stanage End

 

The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a setting of magnificent grandeur. The rock is of impeccable quality and climbing is possible throughout the year, always bearing in mind the vagaries of our climate. Some sections of the cliff have been quarried in the distant past for the production of millstones, most notably the Marble Wall and Wobbler areas of Stanage End. The climbing here is characterised by clean-cut grooves and aretes and a sense of isolation uncommon on the other sections.

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

Routes:

4 Bouldering

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=5

 

 

Burbage North

 

Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers its reputation is one of friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with enthusiastic locals grabbing a quick route or two, or doing a spot of bouldering before the sun goes down. Its proximity to the road, and plentiful short and amenably-graded routes, means that it is also popular with outdoor centres although they tend to focus their activity on the initial sections and a short 3 minute extension to your approach walk will significantly reduce the crowds

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

Routes:

12 Bouldering

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=9

 

Burbage South

 

Burbage South is home of several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest traditional challenges anywhere in the world. A successful ascent of the likes of Captain Invincible, Parthian Shot and Equilibrium will more than likely make the news section on the various web sites and magazines of the climbing world. Don\'t be put off though, in amongst all these big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range.

 

Distance

15 minute drive

 

Routes:

19 Bouldering

 

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=11

Reproduced with kind permission from Rockfax.

Copyright © ROCKFAX 2007

www.rockfax.com