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BOULDERING |
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The Barn
Milne House Millers Dale Derbyshire |
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Nestling in the heart of the Peak District |
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Beautiful Self Catering Holiday Cottage
01298 872338
Sleeps Six
Stunning Location
18th Century Barn
Overlooking River Wye |
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Copyright © ROCKFAX 2007
Raven Tor
The most famous Tor in the peak, even the French have heard of this one. Routes include, The Prow, once proclaimed as the hardest route in the World, Revelations, one of the first 8a+s in the World, Hubble, the World's first 8c and now Mutation, one of only a handful of 9a routes in the World. The crag still has more to offer and the bulging roof right of Hubble is set one day to push the notch higher again.
Distance 10 minutes level walk
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Rubicon-Water cum Jolly
The best buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the short sweeping wall of Rubicon. Easily situated near the Cressbrook end of the dale, Rubicon has become a popular bouldering mecca as well as a major forcing ground for hard sport routes.
Distance 20 minutes level walk
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=446# |
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Stoney Middleton
Stoney, as it is more popularly known, is a crag which most climbers will encounter at some stage in their climbing career. This could be an early visit to tick the plentiful mid-grade classic trad routes like Padme, Pearly Gates, Froth and Sin, or it could be at a later stage, as a seasoned campaigner coming to do battle with the essential yard-stick routes like Scoop Wall, Our Father, Bitter Fingers, Wee Doris and Oliver.
Routes: 1 Bouldering
Distance 15 minute drive
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Roaches Lower
The finest of all the western gritstone cliffs (and some argue finest of all grit) is the superb tiered outcrop of the Roaches. Standing proud above the Cheshire plain, the crag has routes of all grades and of a length that is exceptional for grit. The rock is tinted a pale pinkish and tends to be rather less abrasive than that of the Eastern Edges, though that doesn't mean that the cliffs many superb jamming cracks won't leave their mark!
Routes: 7 Bouldering
Distance 20 minute drive |
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Stanage Popular
Most people\'s first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End where there are enough classics for many years of superb climbing.
Distance 15 minute drive
Routes: 17 Bouldering
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=8
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Stanage Plantation
The magical arena of the Plantation Area marks the beginning of the more continuous section of the climbing. Here the cliff reaches its greatest height on the Tower Face and the whole section is littered with great routes across the grades. It is also one of the most popular bouldering spots around particularly the jumble below Goliath\'s Groove, and the blocks below Paradise Wall.
Distance 15 minute drive
Routes: 20 Bouldering
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=7
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Stanage End
The greatest of all the gritstone edges, with over 4km of exposed rock, in a setting of magnificent grandeur. The rock is of impeccable quality and climbing is possible throughout the year, always bearing in mind the vagaries of our climate. Some sections of the cliff have been quarried in the distant past for the production of millstones, most notably the Marble Wall and Wobbler areas of Stanage End. The climbing here is characterised by clean-cut grooves and aretes and a sense of isolation uncommon on the other sections.
Distance 15 minute drive
Routes: 4 Bouldering http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=5
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Burbage North
Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers its reputation is one of friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with enthusiastic locals grabbing a quick route or two, or doing a spot of bouldering before the sun goes down. Its proximity to the road, and plentiful short and amenably-graded routes, means that it is also popular with outdoor centres although they tend to focus their activity on the initial sections and a short 3 minute extension to your approach walk will significantly reduce the crowds
Distance 15 minute drive
Routes: 12 Bouldering
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_crag.html?id=9
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Burbage South
Burbage South is home of several of the hardest routes on gritstone which makes them amongst the hardest traditional challenges anywhere in the world. A successful ascent of the likes of Captain Invincible, Parthian Shot and Equilibrium will more than likely make the news section on the various web sites and magazines of the climbing world. Don\'t be put off though, in amongst all these big names are plenty of other fine routes across the grade range.
Distance 15 minute drive
Routes: 19 Bouldering |